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Type: Article

Section: Testing > Sensory

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Editor's Note: Breakthrough Beauty

What do you consider a groundbreaking trend in beauty? Blue light protection? Anti-pollution? What about sensory synergies, personalized efficacy, or even minimizing undesired ingredients? This issue encompasses some of these breakthrough concepts.

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Intersecting the Senses: Synesthesia to Connect Cosmetics with Emotion

Synesthesia presents a great opportunity for innovative concepts in the cosmetics field. Considering its potential, a study was undertaken to develop a product design model based on synesthetic evaluations of tactile, audio, scent and taste stimuli, and supported by neuroscience techniques and implicit and explicit evaluations.

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Author Commentary: John Jiménez and Mauricio Guzman Alonzo on Synesthesia in Cosmetics

Most everyone knows what it's like to be a consumer. More recently, product developers have been tapping into this experience to evoke emotional connections in consumers. John Jiménez and Mauricio Guzman Alonzo, authors in our latest issue, have been leading this charge for cosmetics development. Here, they share their insights.

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Comparatively Speaking: The INCI Names vs. Properties of Silicone Surfactants

Surface tension is a ruling factor in the formulator's world. In this edition of "Comparatively Speaking," Tony O'Lenick explains its influence on foam and wetting; he also demonstrates how little the INCI name reveals about a material's properties.

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Sensory Insight: Emollient Profiling Accelerates Speed to Market

Sensory science allows cosmetic chemists to evaluate formulas by providing objective and scientific data on the sensory properties raw materials impart in formulations. This article describes a new sensory test called “Oil Sensory Qualification,” which provides formulators with a fast approach to emollient selection using sensory science.

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Editor's Note: Health and 'Swell'ness

The consumer driver for health and wellness will no doubt flow into the New Year and beyond. As such, this issue takes inspiration from the spa world.

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Gone in a ‘Flash’: Night Sweats Subside with a Novel Astringent Peptide Spray

Certain peptides have been shown to reduce perspiration. Here, the authors explore their use to develop a spray to treat menopause night sweats. To complicate formulation work, salt-based astringents were desired to provide immediate sensory benefits. The authors address this formulation challenge as well.

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Comparatively Speaking: Inflammation vs. Allergy

Are you formulating for sensitive skin? Or is it really normal skin undergoing a typical inflammatory response? Where do allergic reactions fit in? In this edition of "Comparatively Speaking," Nava Dayan, Ph.D., explains.

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New Ideas on Hair Breakage: Mending Existing Flaws

Our historical beliefs as to the causes of hair breakage have been largely shaped by findings from testing approaches. More recently, an alternate mechanical testing technique, fatigue testing, has been changing our perspective on this topic.

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Opportunity in Diversity: Formulating for the Multiethnic Market

The expanding multicultural beauty market provides opportunity to formulate products specifically to the needs of ethnic skin types. Pigmentation is not the only difference between black and Caucasian skin, the skin barrier and other factors come into play.

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A Sense of Sensory Analysis: Testing for the Non-test Expert

Sensory analysis is an important tool that can be successfully applied to all products that impact our senses. This article provides an overview of the means with which formulators can become acquainted with the sensory properties of a cosmetic formula. By doing so, developers can ensure products fulfill consumer needs.

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Reaching a Zen-like State in Skin: Biomimetic Peptide to Balance Sensitivity

Inspired by nature, biomimetic peptides are potent allies in skin care. This paper identifies palmitoyl tripeptide-8 as an effective modulator of neurogenic inflammation and provides clinical evidence of its protective and soothing activities in sensitized skin.

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How Damaged is Hair? Part I: Surface Damage

This article is the first of two that explores ways of capturing and quantifying the different forms of hair damage. Here, we begin with damage to the hair surface, or cuticle, while also exploring the implications of this occurrence. A second article will focus on damage to the internal cortex structure.

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Editor's Note: Secret Sauce for Beauty

When panelists were asked what they wanted in a tomato sauce, no one ever said “extra chunky.” They had to discover they liked it. This is a critically important step in understanding consumer desires and tastes.

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Lip-smacking Results: Mixture Design ‘Pays Off’ to Optimize Wax/Oil Lipstick Ratio

This article explores Mixture Design for lipstick development. The approach models the blending surface with a suitable mathematical equation to identify ideal ingredient ratios. As is shown here, Mixture Design can effectively optimize lipstick formulations, saving development time and costs.

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Manipulating Light in 3D

Researchers from the Australian National University don't take light lightly. In fact, they have mastered the art of manipulating it in what appears to be the best-yet holographic representation in three dimensions. This technology has potential for applications in imaging and augmented reality.

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Packaging: The ‘Silent Salesman’ of Cosmetics

Product packaging is nearly as important, if not more so, than the ingredients in it. This article examines a brief history, classes and properties of various types of packaging, and provides examples of the latest pack advances.

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The Perplexing Topic of Hair 'Type': How Do We Classify Hair?

Most hair-related properties and issues can be rationalized by fiber size and shape, and/or the consequences of extreme conditions. However, the varying reactivity of different hair types with chemical treatments suggests potential differences in structure.

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