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Section: Testing

This review first assesses the methods used to quantify 1,4-dioxane in surface water and drinking water, then extends the assessment to more complex commercially available products.

[updated] How to Ensure Cleansers Comply with Growing 1,4-Dioxane Regulations

A review in the Journal of Surfactants and Detergents explored means of measuring 1,4-dioxane levels in cleansers in order to comply with increasing ppm restrictions set by U.S. states. In this update, industry expert Tony O'Lenick adds context.

Many of the allergens identified were fragrances and other botanicals, according to ScienceAlert, which have become a leading cause of contact dermatitis.

JAMA Letter Cautions: Most 'Natural' Skin Care Contains Allergens

A Research Letter published in JAMA Dermatology highlighted the prevalence of contact allergens in natural skin care in a study of 1,651 products on the U.S. market.

Studies have demonstrated that wild teasel could be a natural source of bioactive compounds, particularly phenolics and iridoids, and have confirmed its high potential for the cosmetic industry. For example, teasel features strong antioxidant activity, especially in leaf extracts

DNA Metabarcoding Tracks Traceability of Naturals: Wild Teasel Case Study

This study authenticates D. fullonum from raw material to final ingredient. It compares D. fullonum and D. sylvestris in a three-step study by: barcoding the raw material, metabarcoding the two extracts and bioinformatics processing.

The molecular richness of immature pericarps of Punica granatum was identified and extracted to develop a natural active that targets four biological components of acne. Its efficacy was investigated as described in this article.

Punica Granatum Pericarp Extract Takes Transversal Routes to Rebalance Acneic Skin

The molecular richness of immature pericarps of Punica granatum was identified and extracted to develop a natural active that targets four biological components of acne. Its efficacy was investigated as described in this article.

A jasmine-based skin care solution is described here to reduce this impact by activating gentle touch receptors and thereby improve well-being and skin integrity.

Jasmine Activates Mind/Skin Wellness Through Touch Receptor

A jasmine-based skin care solution is described here to reduce this impact by activating gentle touch receptors and thereby improve well-being and skin integrity.

Black women could be disproportionately affected, as 60% of participants who reported using hair straighteners self-identified as Black women.

Study Connects Hair Straightener Use to Incident Uterine Cancer

Hair straightening products could be linked to higher incidences of uterine cancer, a study of nearly 34,000 women in the U.S. recently found.

In the case of fluctuating PET results for w/o products, it can be useful to increase the number of samples to verify the results.

Determining Preservative Efficacy in W/O Formulas, Part II: Making Microbiological Safety Assessments

The relevance of microbiological tests for w/o formulas has been questioned, mandating a more holistic approach. This second article in a series examines the failure rate of PETs for w/o products but looks at why this does not mean insufficient stability.

This article describes an approach to demonstrate the moisturizing efficacy of an upcycled postbiotic ferment using a novel digital imaging system that captures changes in the skin surface upon treatment.

Microrelief x Capacitance Reveal Moisturizing Effects of an Upcycled Postbiotic in Hand Skin

This article describes an approach to demonstrate the moisturizing efficacy of an upcycled postbiotic ferment using a novel digital imaging system that captures changes in the skin surface upon treatment.

Genemarkers Ct2209 Lead

Next-generation Sequencing for Personal Care Product Development

Introducing Genemarkers’ NextGen sequencing, a cost-effective method for analyzing differentially expressed genes to detect novel biomarkers. This method can help discover new pathways and biological mechanisms of action for ingredients and formulations.

'...There is currently insufficient relevant and reliable scientific data to conduct realistic ERAs and there is not enough scientific data to support sunscreen ingredient bans,' wrote the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC).

PCPC on NAS Report: 'Not Enough Data to Ban Sunscreens'

The Personal Care Products Council has released a statement responding to the National Academy of Sciences Report, "Review of Fate, Exposure, and Effects of Sunscreens in Aquatic Environments and Implications for Sunscreen Usage and Human Health."

This year's contenders were put through a grueling review by our esteemed panel of judges. Find out who wins the 'claims testing method/tool' category at the Awards Dinner on Sept. 28, co-located with Beauty Accelerate. Register now.

Which Claims Test/Tool Will Win the C&T Allē Award?

Which claims testing method or tool will win the Cosmetics & Toiletries Allē Award? Here are the finalist profiles. Find out who wins on Sept. 28, 2022, at the exclusive Awards Dinner, co-located with Beauty Accelerate. Register now.

Like other markets, efficacy testing, including for cosmetics, is projected to have a substantial increase in revenue by 2027, largely due to pharmaceuticals and biotechnology making constant advancements in relation to public views and the pandemic.

Efficacy Testing Market Worth $423 Million by 2027

Like other markets, efficacy testing, including for cosmetics, is projected to substantially increase in revenue by 2027, largely due to pharmaceuticals and biotechnology making constant advancements in relation to public views and the pandemic.

The authors believe that adding the properties of a wide range of commercial sunscreens to the system database will increase the rate of appropriate sunscreen usage by customers.

AmorePacific, Hanyang Univ. Dynamically Visualize UV Dose on SPF-protected Skin

Work by AmorePacific and Hanyang University, Seoul, published in Skin Research & Technology, reveals a dynamic approach to visualize UV dose based on MED, weather, outdoor activity, etc., on SPF-protected skin.

Microbiological test methods for w/o formulas have raised questions in terms of their suitability. They also require a more critical view of the results than other product types. This first article in a two-part series reviews the limitations of such methods and options for their optimization. It also critically observes to what extent test results provide relevant information for an appropriate safety assessment. Part II, in August 2022, will explore a holistic approach to more accurately assess microbiological safety.

Determining Preservative Efficacy in W/O Formulas, Part I: Test Performance and Limitations

Microbiological test methods for w/o formulas have raised questions in terms of suitability. They also require a more critical view of the results than other product types. This first article in a two-part series reviews the limitations of such methods.

High-throughput screening, AI and modeling, and other digital tools are ramping up the pace of new cosmetic ingredient technology discovery and product development. Learn more at Beauty Accelerate 2022.

Beauty Accelerate 2022: Tech x Beauty to Accelerate R&D Innovation

The session will inspire attendees by considering the ways emerging technologies can make innovation more efficient while rendering brands nimble enough to respond to shifting consumer and supply chain realities.

Frictional properties can affect application, finish, UV protection, etc.

Friction Dynamics Characterize Cosmetic Dispersion Function, Utility

Research published in the Journal of Oleo Science describes a sinusoidal motion friction evaluation system applied to artificial skin to evaluate cosmetic dispersions.

The model accurately predicted skin permeability and the speed of the UHPLC method could classify it as a high-throughput approach.

Test Model Developed to Predict Skin Permeability of Compounds

A test model published in the Journal of Chromatography A uses retention on octadecyl, cholesterol-bonded and immobilized artificial membrane columns to accurately predict the skin permeability of compounds.

Revisions include adding “special cosmetics” and “cosmetics using new ingredients” to the key categories of sampling testing.

China Revises Cosmetic Sampling Testing Rules, Calls for Comments

The measures will focus on testing in children’s cosmetics, special cosmetics and cosmetics containing new ingredients. Measures are open to public comment through July 14, 2022.

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