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Type: Article

Section: Testing

'[Sunscreen] developers will be able to innovate more efficiently while maintaining high standards of quality and safety for consumers.'

[updated] How ISO's Endorsement of Two Test Methods Will Enlighten Sunscreen Development

After 10 years, sunscreen developers are nearing the finish line for more ethical, cost efficient, reliable and faster testing thanks to ISO's endorsement of two standards. The final vote is in September 2024. Here, two experts explain what this means.

For desirable hair styles, both stiffness and flexibility are necessary – but the two properties are generally considered incompatible.

Isomalto-oligosaccharides Naturally Balance ‘Stiffness’ with Flexibility for Hair Styling Benefits

This article describes enzymatically controlled naturally derived isomalto-oligosaccharides. It demonstrates how they balance stiffness and flexibility to maintain hair styles, as well as reduce the need for synthetic setting polymers.

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Testing Tactics: Approaches to Measure Scalp Comfort and Care

This article describes examples of test methods beyond standard skin hydration, sebum and TEWL measurements being used help create scalp care products that address conditions such as inflammation, redness, dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis and more.

After 14 days, M. cochinchinensis extract improved stinging, irritation, itch and discomfort by 67%, 100%, 91% and 100%, respectively.

Holistically Derailing the Sensitive Scalp ‘Rollercoaster’

A Maclura cochinchinensis extract was developed to provide holistic relief for sensitive scalps by derailing multiple interconnected aspects of this “rollercoaster” condition. The active’s efficacy was tested in vitro and in vivo as described here.

What does biodegradable actually mean? There are many misconceptions around biodegradability, even among those involved in the development, substantiation and communication of a biodegradable product. This stretches from R&D and regulatory affairs experts to marketeers, all of whom have a different degree of understanding of the term.

Peeling Back the ‘Biodegradable’ Label

Industry experts have varying degrees of understanding of biodegradability. This article aims to close the gaps by presenting the science, explaining terminology and clarifying calculations and testing to help those vested better understand it.

AI holds massive potential to research and design personalized, multisensorial products.

AI-powered, Personal Multisensory Experiences to Lead Future Beauty

There's a bigger picture behind product sensory experiences encompassing sustainability, personalization, inclusivity and multisensory input — potentially powered by AI. These are revealed by industry experts and Future Market Insights, described here.

From 2013-2020, advisor and columnist Trefor Evans, Ph.D., wrote the column series, 'Testing Tactics in Hair' for C&T, which is treasure trove of information for those working in the hair care space. Following is an index, complete with links.

'Testing Tactics in Hair' Column Series — An Index of Works by Trefor Evans, Ph.D.

From 2013-202, adviser and columnist Trefor Evans, Ph.D., wrote the column series, "Testing Tactics in Hair" for Cosmetics & Toiletries, covering methods to measure damage, treatments, claims and more. This is an index of his works.

To provide a natural solution for sensitive skin, a hyperbranched dextrin was developed and tested for soothing and protective effects. The absence of adverse effects on the microbiome also was assessed by a third party, with promising results.

Hyperbranched Dextrin for Soothing, Microbiome-friendly Skin Care

To provide a natural solution for sensitive skin, a hyperbranched dextrin was developed and tested for soothing and protective effects. The absence of adverse effects on the microbiome also was assessed by a third party, with promising results.

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Consistency of Vaselinum Album and Flavum - Hollow Cone Method (EU Pharmacopeia)

The penetrometer PNR 12 is suitable for consistency measurements required in the pharmaceutical industry. Various test kits are available for different pharmaceutical products and standards like the official WHO method European Pharmacopoeia 2.9.9.

Transdermal microneedle patches enable active ingredients to bypass the slow diffusional process across the stratum corneum’s barrier to reach directly into the deeper skin layers.

How Dissolving HA Microneedles Change Before/After Application

Dissolvable microneedles have gained popularity to overcome the skin barrier and deliver actives. Here, SEM was used to evaluate changes that occur to microneedles upon application. The results could provide claims and regulatory classification insights.

Gm Methylation (800 X 450 Px)

Are Your Formulations Affecting DNA Methylation?

Determine how active ingredients and finished formulations impact DNA methylation produced by stressors such as UV, blue light and diesel particulate matter with DNA Methylation Services from Genemarkers.

The present study examined the effects of commercially available jojoba esters in liquid, natural jojoba-like form in three studies measuring irritation mitigation, skin hydration and soothing properties.

Jojoba Oil Esters Ease Inflammation, Sensitivity and Water Loss from Skin and the Environment

Water scarcity has become a major concern and jojoba is known to flourish under controlled low water conditions. As such, jojoba wax esters were explored for skin care to reduce inflammation and sensitivity and to provide hydration over a 24-hr period.

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Environmental Stress Panel for Evaluating Diesel Particulate Matter==> download our unique Gene Expression Panels Guide at no cost

Genemarkers, a trusted partner for applying genomic technologies to personal care product development, has launched a new testing service to evaluate how product formulations protect or repair skin in response to diesel particulate matter (DPM).

In evaluating how different solvents may affect the rheology of personal care formulas, it is helpful to consider that different formulation types have distinct relationships between viscosity and elasticity depending on the factors generating their elastic properties.

How Natural Butylene Glycol Advances Market and Rheology Dynamics

Demand for sustainable ingredients in cosmetics and personal care is well-known. Here, a sustainable natural butylene glycol is described to advance this trend and its effects on viscosity and elasticity are assessed in five test formulas.

Studies have demonstrated that wild teasel could be a natural source of bioactive compounds, particularly phenolics and iridoids, and have confirmed its high potential for the cosmetic industry. For example, teasel features strong antioxidant activity, especially in leaf extracts

DNA Metabarcoding Tracks Traceability of Naturals: Wild Teasel Case Study

This study authenticates D. fullonum from raw material to final ingredient. It compares D. fullonum and D. sylvestris in a three-step study by: barcoding the raw material, metabarcoding the two extracts and bioinformatics processing.

The molecular richness of immature pericarps of Punica granatum was identified and extracted to develop a natural active that targets four biological components of acne. Its efficacy was investigated as described in this article.

Punica Granatum Pericarp Extract Takes Transversal Routes to Rebalance Acneic Skin

The molecular richness of immature pericarps of Punica granatum was identified and extracted to develop a natural active that targets four biological components of acne. Its efficacy was investigated as described in this article.

A jasmine-based skin care solution is described here to reduce this impact by activating gentle touch receptors and thereby improve well-being and skin integrity.

Jasmine Activates Mind/Skin Wellness Through Touch Receptor

A jasmine-based skin care solution is described here to reduce this impact by activating gentle touch receptors and thereby improve well-being and skin integrity.

In the case of fluctuating PET results for w/o products, it can be useful to increase the number of samples to verify the results.

Determining Preservative Efficacy in W/O Formulas, Part II: Making Microbiological Safety Assessments

The relevance of microbiological tests for w/o formulas has been questioned, mandating a more holistic approach. This second article in a series examines the failure rate of PETs for w/o products but looks at why this does not mean insufficient stability.

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